I didn’t realize how important the Christmas pageant was to Umbrian—especially rural Umbrian—culture until the day I blew it.

About seven years ago, when my youngest son was a month old, the phone rang. It was our local country parish calling, letting me know that they were organizing for that year’s live nativity scene to take place in a few weeks, and casting calls were out. We had been chosen to play the Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus.

I turned them down.

Now, to defend myself, let me just say that our parish’s Nativity pageant is held every year in a darling mini-hamlet outside Assisi called Armenzano, which is also possibly the coldest and windiest spot in Umbria come December. I had a six week old baby, and a three year old (I’m not sure what I would have done with him, as I would have to check with biblical scholars but I don’t seem to recall Christ having an older brother). Giuseppe was to be played by another neighbor, so I was looking at three long evenings of sitting in an ice-cold stable with an unhappy infant, a stranger as a husband, and a toddler running under the legs of the ox and ass. It didn’t sound particularly enjoyable, so I thought I would pass the honor on to someone else. That was the last time anyone in the parish spoke to me for two years.

Nativity pageants are to Umbrians what Macy’s Santa is to New Yorkers: a Christmas staple honored and loved, even by those who aren’t particularly observant. Christmas in Umbria still tends to be more about faith than about sleighs and visitors from the North Pole (though the Jolly Old Elf is gradually taking over), and most parishes and small villages organize a live Nativity pageant for the days surrounding Christmas (generally from the 24^th to the 26^th) and the Epiphany (January 6^th). The local tourist office usually has a listing of locations and dates, but here are a few pageants I particularly love…not so much for their polish and professionalism (you will get an occasional peek of tennis shoe under a Wise Man’s robe and the kids often forget their lines), but for the picturesque locations and passion of the participants.

Armenzano

Of course, my local parish’s Nativity pageant is especially close to my heart. Held in the tiny, picturesque hamlet of Armenzano, this is one to see if you are staying in Assisi for the Christmas holidays.

26 December, 1 and 6 January from 4:30 to 7 pm

Ficulle

This live nativity scene has over 150 “actors”, live folk music, artisan workshops, and food and drink in the center of the village.

26 December and 2 January from 6 pm

Lugnano in Teverina

Medieval garb and period scenes set this Nativity pageant apart…one of Umbria’s oldest (this year marks the 34th edition), and worth a visit also for the chance to visit the lovely town of Lugnano.

24 December from 10 pm to midnight

26 December from 5:30 to 8 pm

30 December from 9:30 pm

Preci

The imposing and dramatic Abbey of Sant’Eutizio sets the scene for this pretty Nativity pageant in the Valnerina.

24 December from 11 pm

6 January from 5 pm

Volterrano

Where most Nativity pageants are held in the winding lanes of medieval villages, in Volterrano the Nativity is played out in the woods and fields surrounding the town, where an entire historic village is reconstructed for the event.

25, 26 December and 6 January from 5 to 7 pm

Marcellano

A regional favorite, both for the charm of the setting and the Christmas market which is held at the same time in the village piazza.

25, 26 December and 1, 6 January

Basilica di San Domenico, Perugia

If you are staying in Perugia for the holidays, stop by the church of San Domenico to see their lovely live Nativity scene held downstairs in the vaulted church crypt.

25 and 26 December, 1 and 6 January from 4 to 7 pm.